Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

2nd September 1829 - Grindelwald

Engraving of the Wengernalp with the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau mountains, 1830
1. Engraving of the Wengernalp with the Eiger, the Mönch and the Jungfrau mountains, 1830

[Wednesday, 2nd September – Gloomy day – hike through the Wengernalp [alpine meadow] – privy councillor Welker from Freiburg [Breisgau] and his riding wife, amiable – a bouquet on the stick – a little tired – bad path – the chalet on the Wengernalp (1) – the shrouded Jungfrau [mountain] – life at the chalet – fried cheese with honey – thundering avalanches – my duties as a gentleman – dreadful weather – the cheerful company – the second chalet – frugal shepherd’s meal and echo from key rifles – alpine roses – views of the Grindelwald Valley with its blue glaciers – climbing the glacier – water cave – the blue fairy cave – the falling chubby Dutchman (that is, my companion Queck) – the trembling wife of the privy councillor (that is, Welker) – other German company – arriving in Grindelwald (2) – the piano – my fall – the listening Englishman – applause at the end – played a lot – rustic talks about Napoleon – dinner – the young Strasbourg woman – Englishmen – the boozing Dutchman – discovering fellow countrymen – Kersten from Freiberg – Scheuermann from Brandenburg – lieutenant Hermann from Magdeburg – von Grafenried from Berne – the Lungern women not as good as the Brienz ones – “poussateurs” [probably Swiss French for “load pullers / pushers / transporters” [?]] – playing the piano after the meal – happy imagination and speaking broken French with the Englishmen – luxuriant scandal in the night, involving the naked guide and naked waitresses -]

Table d’hôte at Hotel Zum Schwarzen Adler in Grindelwald
2. Table d’hôte at Hotel Zum Schwarzen Adler in Grindelwald

Johann Jakob Leuthy: [In the middle of the village, viewing those noble giants of rocks and glaciers, at Thalstrasse street, there is the long-established Hotel Zum Schwarzen Adler, which has enjoyed the constant and special confidence of all its guests until the present day, both because of its excellent location and of its amenities and service. There, travellers will find a courteous reception, abundant and well-prepared food and a well-stocked wine cellar, and a prompt, good and clean service.]

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