Schumann’s Swiss Journey in 1829

10th October 1829 - Chur

[The] Domleschg [Valley], watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler, 1835
1. [The] Domleschg [Valley], watercolour by Ludwig Bleuler, 1835

[Saturday, 10th October – Gloomy day – healthy awakening and feeling cheerful – preferred to walk – the Heinzenberg [Ridge], the most beautiful in the world, as the Duke of Rohan (4) called it, which is not a lie – the uniquely beautiful, free Domleschg Valley (1) – herds on the poetic mountains – villages – castles – ruins and the [River] Rhine – friendly Swiss villages – the sun coming through here and there – terrible path

Reichenau with the confluence of the Anterior and the Posterior Rhine, Ludwig Bleuler, 1835
2. Reichenau with the confluence of the Anterior and the Posterior Rhine, Ludwig Bleuler, 1835

– the shrouded Splügen [Pass] – the shrouded Piz Beverin [mountain] – all mountains covered in snow – the [River] Rhine continuing to be marshy – the mass of streams falling into it [the Rhine] – the white mountain castle – feeling cheerful – feeling hungry – lunch in Bonaduz with great appetite – the newspaper reader, neither seeing nor hearing, and accumulating incredibly high bills – leaving – the friendly [village of] Reichenau [Grisons] – the confluence of the two Rhine Rivers and payment for this from a “Plutzer/Blutzer” [= “clay jug”] to a “Mautner” [= “toll collector”] [?], where I really felt like an ox –

Post Square in Chur, ca. 1860
3. Post Square in Chur, ca. 1860

– repeatedly and cheerfully looking back at the mountains – a familiar forest footpath – blue innocent eyes in the sky – beautiful evening clouds – herds returning home – tower bells – a true “sun evening” [= Saturday] and my remark – herd bells ringing – the lit snowy mountains – people greeting each other – joy – melancholy – homesickness - view of Chur – a bit tired – arriving in Chur (3) – a German “vetturino [= “coachman”] – the worst possible inn (5) but also the cheapest possible – the rude innkeeper and my even more rude rudeness – going to bed – nosebleed in the night -]

Duke of Rohan (see Wikipedia: Henry, Duke of Rohan)
4. Duke of Rohan (see Wikipedia: Henry, Duke of Rohan)
Hotel Weisses Kreuz, Chur
5. Hotel Weisses Kreuz, Chur

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